DSH Perfumes en Fleur
Beauty is not a need but an ecstasy.
It is not a mouth thirsting nor an empty
hand stretched forth,
But rather a heart enflamed and a soul enchanted. ~ excerpt from Khalil Gibran’s The Prophet, On Beauty
Dawn Spencer Hurwitz of DSH Perfumes
I often think of poetry in relation to perfume – much as I do color, form, cadence, and lyricism. When it comes to Art and Olfaction award winning artisanal perfumer Dawn Spencer Hurwitz the poet Khalil Gibran springs to mind more frequently than most. Something inherently mystical and passionate conjures her artistic voice for me. Dawn is too multi-faceted to be reduced to verse, yet this association remains vivid and insistent. As she reimagines her 2001 creation, the DSH Perfumes en Fleur of today – paradisaical beauty feels paramount. One might erroneously dismiss it as yet one more tropical-themed fragrance inspired by Hawaii’s natural splendor; it’s more than that. en Fleur is an exotic garland that regales both the spirit and the senses in such a manner that it becomes challenging to disentangle the two.
Plumeria, aka frangipani – is a highly fragrant flowering shrub which has been said to embody the spirit of Aloha: the heart and soul of Hawaiian culture. It flourishes in tropical locales. Aloha values hospitality, love, kindness and respect as essential to what it fundamentally means to be Hawaiian. For South Pacific Islanders, plumeria has positive connotations: because its blossoms bloom on bare branches, it is a strong symbol of new life, spring, and rejuvenation. Leis of plumeria are given to welcome guests; if a woman wears a flower behind her left ear, she is spoken for – and one placed behind her right ear indicates that she is available. To Buddhists, plumeria symbolize immortality; in Hindu rituals they are incorporated in deity worship. Plumeria’s five-petaled form represents the attributes of love, faith, charity, hope, and devotion – and the ability to bridge the earthly and spiritual realms.
This waxy, honeyed floral is associated in other cultures with negative attributes: for the Bangladeshi, frangipani connotes death and funerals; in Malaysian folklore, the flower is connected with fierce and vengeful female vampires known as the Pontianuk. In Vietnamese culture, they are thought to possess healing powers. It’s fascinating how cultural perceptions differ regarding this heady, intoxicating flower.
We needn’t concern ourselves with the darker interpretations when we experience DSH Perfumes en Fleur, because it is undiluted joy in a flacon. I challenge you to feel morose upon its application; don’t take my word for it. Try it for yourself. en Fleur bursts with optimism and enthusiasm; it’s irrepressible. A zesty lemon and bergamot introduction paves the way for a corona of solar, narcotic florals in hues of cream and yellow: frangipani, gardenia, tiare, grandiflorum and sambac jasmine; gardenia, tuberose, ylang-ylang. These provide en Fleur with an intense floralcy which is only slightly indolic in character, rendering it more comfortable for those who aren’t fond of the animalic (and there are many for whom this is applicable). en Fleur’s solid base harmonizes with the rest of its composition; it doesn’t alter the fragrance nor weigh it down with unnecessary complexity. It can be tempting for a perfumer to include multiple materials which evoke a sultry climate – but often the end result feels more like a kitchen sink, and this approach may obfuscate their original intention. The incomparable lusciousness of Hawaiian sandalwood, with its rich woody sweetness, is tailor-made; a dash of tender musk, a mere soupçon of vanilla, and the silvery versatility of orris concrete confer both support and equipoise. The level of voluptuousness displayed here strikes a perfect balance. I enjoy and admire en Fleur greatly – and I am generally not one to prefer tropical fragrances, as they often ring false to my nose. This perfume possesses a naturalness which feels unstudied and graceful; it will not weary your senses. At the very least, it enables me to convey my spirit to the South Pacific and the wistful paradise incarnate.
“The longing for paradise is paradise itself.” ~ Khalil Gibran
Notes: bergamot, lemon, frangipani absolute, gardenia, grandiflorum jasmine, sambac jasmine, tiare absolute, tuberose accord, ylang-ylang Nosey Be, orris concrete, Hawaiian sandalwood, vanilla, musk
Sample provided by the perfumer – many thanks! My nose is my own…
~ Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor
all images and paintings courtesy of Dawn Spencer Hurwitz
Thanks to the generosity of Dawn Spencer Hurwitz of DSH Perfumes, we have one 30ml flacon of DSH Perfumes en Fleur for one registered reader in the continental USA. You must register. To be eligible, please leave a comment regarding what sparked your interest about Ida’s review of DSH Perfumes en Fleur, your favorite DSH Perfume, and where you live in the continental USA. Draw closes 4/10/2026
Today April 7th is Ida’s birthday. Show her some love !
PLEASE SUPPORT OUR ARTISAN PERFUMERS AND BUY DIRECTLY FROM THEIR WEBSITES OR STUDIOS. You can sample here.
Read Michelyn’s Interview with Dawn Spencer Hurwitz of DSH Perfumes here.
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