Perfumer David Chieze of LUZI

David Chieze of LUZI

“For me, the world of scent has always been deeply interwoven with a more profound sensory experience. My earliest memories are strongly tied to smells – the green freshness of freshly cut grass, thuja, and forest floor from my childhood in Northern France. It wasn’t until later that this inherent fascination began to crystallize into a tangible career. When I speak of perceiving “textures” in smells, it’s not mere metaphor; it’s a form of synesthesia that informs my entire creative process. It’s like when you feel the coolness of marble or the softness of velvet – that physical sensation also translates into how a scent feels to me. A fragrance can be smooth as silk, or rough as bark, or vibrant like a fizzing drink.

David Chieze of Luzi as a child 1990

My entry into the perfumery world was wonderfully unconventional. Working at L’Artisan Parfumeur proved to be a pivotal moment. It was there I encountered Bertrand Duchaufour, a meeting that would profoundly shape my foundational understanding. After closing the shop, when everyone else went home, I would stay. Smelling, experimenting, trying to reconstruct classic accords like rose or muguet. It wasn’t formal lessons; it was pure immersion, learning by doing, by smelling, by making mistakes and understanding why. It was the best possible foundation – a true “nose-on” education, if you will.

David Chieze with Mark Buxton at an event Vietnam 2019

Following this immersive experience, my journey led me to the dynamic atelier of Mark Buxton, a perfumer renowned for his distinctive and often unconventional style. Mark is a force of nature, so unique. We definitely align on a shared vision of what modern perfumery can be – bold, uncompromising, authentic. Now working at Luzi for 5 years, I still share an office with Mark, where we answer briefs for different niche brands.

Les Dents de Lanfon 2016 photo from David Chieze’s Instagram

Inspiration for me is sometimes a sudden flash sometimes a rich tapestry woven from accumulated sensations. It’s often an accumulation of sensations from all my senses—visuals, tastes, sounds, and especially smells. This sensory input, coupled with my deep knowledge of ingredients, leads to what I call “intuition.” Whether I’m translating a specific memory into a fragrance or venturing into entirely new olfactive territory, the driving force remains the same. Nature, in particular, serves as an inexhaustible wellspring. My childhood in northern France, surrounded by the greenness of thuja and forest floors, left a deep imprint. But then, discovering the wild rosemary and thyme baking in the sun in the south of France was a revelation. For me, it’s not merely about the scent of nature but about observing the profound balance in nature, the way opposing elements naturally find equilibrium. This principle of harmony between contrasts is something I strive to echo in every fragrance I create.

Beyond the obvious artistic influences, I find surprising parallels in everyday activities. Cooking! It’s an everyday creative practice. The act of combining ingredients, understanding how flavors interact, the alchemy of heat transforming raw materials – it’s incredibly similar to perfumery. Smelling fresh herbs, spices, how different textures of food create a full experience in the mouth… it’s all about composition and balance. And it keeps the olfactive muscles sharp! When an olfactive intuition strikes, I’m quick to capture it. I immediately write down a list of ingredients that resonate with that idea so I don’t forget it.

David Chieze in his Lab 2025

Looking ahead, my olfactive curiosity continues to pull me towards new horizons. I’m fascinated by non-sweet fruity accords. There’s so much more to fruit than just sweetness. I also continue to explore salty notes, finding their “mineralic tension” adds intriguing layers to compositions. For anyone dreaming of becoming a perfumer, my advice is simple yet profound: Smell everything, all the time. Be curious. Don’t be afraid to experiment, to break rules, to make mistakes. And connect with people in the industry. It’s a passionate world, and generosity with knowledge is key. And never stop learning – every day brings a new olfactive discovery.”

David Chieze, Perfumer for LUZI

All photos are courtesy of David Chieze of LUZI unless otherwise noted

David Chieze of LUZI fragrances:

2016

anti anti – AtelierPMP – Perfume Mayr Plettenberg

2018

Empa – AtelierPMP – Perfume Mayr Plettenberg Free

2019

Find Me (No.2/Seek) – Folie à Plusieurs

Aspects of 2 – Folie à Plusieurs

Tars Über Mann – Scherk

2020

Free– Mark Buxton Perfumes

Geschöpf – AtelierPMP – Perfume Mayr Plettenberg

Salvia – Olfactive Pharmacy

111 hz – Folie à Plusieurs

2021

Purple Ink – Brooklyn Soap Company

Blue Moon – Brooklyn Soap Company

Solitude is Bliss – Folie à Plusieurs

2022

Faris – Kajal (Co-created with Urs Castalleti)

Why Not A Fougère – Mark Buxton Perfumes

Tuxberg – Tuxberg

Aura – Folie à Plusieurs

Gather: Stone – Folie à Plusieurs

Resonant -Oddity

Diamant L’Eau Intense – Rammstein

2023

Blind for Love – LEN Fragrance

2024

Ô Féminin – M. Micallef

Somnus by Woot

Fall in Lust – Jillian Switzerland

2025

The Psychoanalysis of Fire – Folie à Plusieurs

Eau d’Ominance – Gravel

Blue Sunset-Oscar Emil

Oddity- Delulu

Swiss Arabian Soul of Bali

Velvet Mokka QOT Question of Time

Electimuss Astrum Nova

Thomas de Monaco Jade Amour

2026

Purple Love – M. Micallef

California love – Memoirs of a perfume collector

Amber Bloom – Electimuss

Thomas De Monaco Jade Amour image courtesy of the brand

Notes: Yellow Mandarin, Liane de Jade, Bergamot, Ylang-Ylang, Jasmine, Vanilla, Vetiver, Muscone, Sandalwood.

Thanks to the generosity of Thomas De Monaco, we have a bottle of Jade Amour from the Artist Collection to honour David Chieze of LUZI to give away to one registered reader in the EU or USA. You must register for your entry to be counted. To be eligible, please leave a meaningful comment saying what you found fascinating about David Chieze of LUZI, his path to perfumery, a quote that resonated with you, if you are familiar with any of the fragrances he signed and where you live. Draw closes 6/15/2026

David Chieze of LUZI was selected by Michelyn as her Rising Star of 2025 which you can read here. Thomas De Monaco’s Jade Amour was in Michelyn Best of Scents 2025 Top Ten list here and J WeareScentient which you can read here.

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