John Galliano Eau de Parfum (2008) and Eau de Toilette (2010)

John Galliano by John Galliano Eau de Parfum and Eau de Toilette both composed by Aurelien Guichard and Christine Nagel

I’ve always been curious about the difference between John Galliano by John Galliano eau de parfum and John Galliano eau de toilette: they were released within two years of one another and created by the same perfumers, Aurélien Guichard and Christine Nagel. These fragrances are a bit like the two faces of Janus. They share but few points of convergence and possess entirely different personalities: one would be hard-pressed to identify them as being related. I decided to search for relatively affordable bottles of each for comparison – and to assuage my nosiness (all puns intended). Not having had much experience with either scent, I found them fascinating.

Ida’s mini EDP

t’s helpful to regard a particular fragrance in the context of trends and other perfumes released during the same year. I find that this can shed light upon why a scent may or may not have been successful. For example, if there were many brilliant perfumes, it’s easier to understand why some fell through the cracks. I’d like to begin with John Galliano for John Galliano eau de parfum (2008) first – because it is clearly the night to the eau de toilette’s day.

2008 was a mixed bag, fragrance-wise – but it helped popularize oud thanks to the burgeoning output of the houses of Amouage, Montale and Mancera. Florals, both gourmand-y and tender, flourished: a plethora of unusual and exquisite perfumes by Pierre Guillaume, Chloé in parfum form, Chanel Beige, and Guerlain Cruel Gardénia thrived. The rare and strange Mona Di Orio Amyitis, Amouage Homage Attar, Lyric Woman and Man, Jubilation XXV Man, and Frédéric Malle Dans Tes Bras left their indelible fingerprints; they were to become iconic. Amber scents were extremely popular: Balmain Ambre Gris, Goutal’s Ambre Fétiche papillon boule, Ginestet’s Botrytis, Estée Lauder’s Bronze Goddess, Serge Lutens El Attarine; Ineke Evening Edged in Gold; Kenzo Amour le Parfum; Frapin 1270, Histoires de Parfums 1740 and Ambre 114, and Guerlain Gourmand Coquin. Gourmand-y florals received attention as well: Opus Oils’ Burlesque, Divine, and Island Girl Collections; Caron Les Plus Belles Lavandes; and Guerlain Insolence.

So, how does John Galliano for John Galliano figure into this picture? For once, I feel that this edp was right in step with the times: if you subtract lovely florals from 2008’s list, you observe that full-bodied fragrances were prominent among those I referred to above. The edp bridged the cranny between Gothic allure and brilliant blossoms and was certainly well-received. In fact, it remains an admired cult fragrance to this day, despite being discontinued; it is lovingly mentioned on fragrance forums. Diptyque created an Essence of John Galliano candle and room spray which I regret not purchasing when I had the opportunity.

Wikipedia Casati as Queen of Light in Léon Bakst costume

The edp couldn’t dream up a more fantastic muse if it tried. Marchesa Luisa Casati, the eccentric Italian heiress, was a major inspiration for Galliano – particularly for his Spring/Summer 1998 Dior collection (Galliano held the position of Creative Director for the House of Dior from 1996-2011) which was dedicated to the Marchesa – and his signature fragrance launched in 2008 which reflected her “bruised, shadowed spirit”, according to the couturier himself. One of the hallmark’s of Galliano’s style is his outrageous historical, romantic theatricality, and his first fragrance mirrors this. Aldehydes! They help lift what might have been a considerably weighty scent, and they are accompanied by angelica’s bitter herbal musk and bergamot. The heart of this edp is a roster of prima donnas in petticoats – violet, rose, iris, lavender, and peony: initially we smell a bouquet that could be misconstrued as Victorian under other circumstances. This phase is luscious, and it is trailed by a moody wraithlike base of church-worthy incense wed to a shadowy patchouli, dark amber, musk and the arid woodiness of Virginia cedar. There is a good deal of movement in this eau de parfum – an attribute which I always appreciate. I have only a dab mini size of this scent, but I can see how it might be easy to overdose with the spray. A word about the ornate Belle Époque- inspired flacon designed by Rexam’s Center of Excellence in Simandre, France: it is rather fiddly and can be a bit of a nuisance to use, but perhaps we’ll overlook this because its outré appearance houses such beautiful jus. Notes: aldehydes, angelica, bergamot, violet, iris, rose, lavender, peony, incense, amber, patchouli, musk, Virginia cedar (Inspired by Luisa, Marquesa di Casati)

Ida’s bottle of EDT

On to 2010, the year that Aurélien Guichard and Christine Nagel created John Galliano eau de toilette. That year ushered in an abundance of oud, amber-based fragrances, intensely woody ones, and any number of new Pierre Guillaumes, Demeters, Bond No.9 NYC, Montales, and soOuds which appeared upon the scene. There were also delicate florals and what one might term ‘girly’ ones. Some exceptional perfumes of note included Roja Diaghilev, Houbigant Fougère Royale, MFK Absolue Pour le Matin and Absolue Pour le Soir, Creed Aventus. John Galliano wanted to create a fragrance which was lighthearted and vivacious, representative of a different facet of the Galliano Girl: still romantic, but more youthful and easy to wear. A new musky floral was born, John Galliano eau de toilette. The two fragrances shared varying degrees of rose, iris, musk and cedar – but the second was truly nothing like its predecessor. It’s as if Galliano wanted to dabble in watercolor: he paints in transparent hues of a limpid (not dark) rose, a wan iris, an amiable (cuddly) musk, anchored to earth by the merest wisp of oakmoss and a whisper of cedar. The eau de toilette most likely commences with aldehydes in order to create diffusivity, but it is not listed as such. Quite frequently, not every component is listed in every perfume – but the primary ones are, and in 2010 perfumery had a different view regarding the transparency which we expect today. John Galliano edt possesses a fey, happy-go-lucky visage; it is a young girl on the cusp of womanhood, graceful and fleet of foot. Would you seek it out on eBay? That’s clearly taste-dependent. It’s not a complex composition with tenacity, but the edt is a very pretty rose, a gentle, ethereal creature which anyone might choose to wear. I’m afraid that it wasn’t unusual enough (in light of the more ebullient rose perfumes available) to garner as much attention as it might have done.

Bottles of each perfume are available on eBay and other sites, and the prices go from ~ $25.00 for minis, up to > $260.00 for a small bottle. Gift sets vary, too – and are often more costly than the single atomizers. If you aren’t certain, it’s wise to purchase a 5 ml mini to begin with. There’s plenty out there, thankfully.

John Galliano Eau de Toilette Notes: tincture of rose, iris, oakmoss, Virginia cedar (per Wikiparfum, the additional note of musk; perceived aldehydes)

Bottles are personal purchases from my own collection. My nose is my own…

~ Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor

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